The Basics Antiperspirant: Categorized as an over-the-counter (OTC) drug by the FDA, an antiperspirant uses ingredients (see several examples below) that interact with sweat glands to target and prevent wetness, says cosmetics chemist Ron Robinson, the founder of BeautyStat.com. Deodorant: Let’s clear up a big misconception — the purpose of a deodorant is solely to mask underarm odor, not to prevent wetness. “Deodorants often contain fragrance along with an active deodorant called triclosan,” says Robinson, “which prevents odor-causing bacteria from growing.” Conventional-Deodorant Terms Aluminum salts: The active ingredient in antiperspirants, common forms are aluminum chlorohydrate (in roll-ons and aerosols) and aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY (in solids). These compounds plug the sweat glands, temporarily preventing perspiration, says Jim Hammer, a cosmetics chemist and the owner of Mix Solutions product consulting in Uxbridge, Massachusetts. Controversy has emerged in recent years as some studies have suggested that aluminum may mimic estrogen, potentially increasing the risk of breast cancer of users — though many experts claim these studies were flawed. The FDA has issued a statement, saying, “Researchers at the National Cancer Institute, a part of the National Institutes of Health, are not aware of any conclusive evidence linking the use of underarm antiperspirants or deodorants and the subsequent development of breast cancer.” Cyclomethicone: A silicone base in aerosol deodorants that holds ingredients together, “it’s used as a substitute for alcohol,” says Hammer, “since it doesn’t create the stinging sensation on freshly shaven areas.” pH-Balanced: The pH is a measure of acidity and alkalinity. Deodorants labeled as pH-balanced “are usually close to the natural pH of the skin, which is slightly acidic at 5.5,” says Robinson. A pH-balanced product helps guard against irritation, making the deodorant more easily tolerated. Talc: Used in many products, including foundation powder and dry shampoo, talc is no stranger to the world of beauty. “It’s a natural mineral — magnesium silicate — and it’s useful for absorbing moisture and reducing friction,” says Hammer. Triclosan: An antibacterial and antifungal agent, triclosan prevents the growth of the bacteria responsible for body odor, says Robinson. Natural-Deodorant Terms Baking soda: Add to the infinite uses for the popular household multitasker that it’s an odor neutralizer and a wetness absorber. Essential oils: While some essential oils, like lavender and tea tree oils, are naturally antibacterial and fight odor, says Hammer, others may be added to deodorants simply for their pleasing scents. Hops: More commonly known as a bittering agent in beer, hops are also used in deodorants to help curb the growth of underarm bacteria. Mineral salts: Mined from the earth, mineral salts form a temporary layer over skin, preventing bacteria from growing and causing odor. Witch hazel: A popular skin care astringent that gets its name from the North American shrub it’s made from, witch hazel absorbs oils and constricts the size of pores in the armpit.
