From UV rays to blue light and pollution, “all these environmental factors work by creating oxidative damage in the skin, which breaks down collagen and may also serve to damage the barrier function of the skin. A damaged barrier makes skin more prone to the ill effects of UV damage,” says Jennifer Chwalek, MD, a dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology in New York City. Oxidative damage or stress happens when the level of harmful free radicals present surpasses that of the neutralizing “good guy” antioxidants, according to an article published in Polyphenols in Human Health and Disease in 2014. RELATED: Do Beauty Supplements Like Collagen and Resveratrol Work? Here, dermatologists talk about the biggest environmental factors that damage skin, leading to aging and increased skin cancer risk, plus the best products and ingredients to shield your dermis from damage.
UV Rays Are the Most Significant Threat to Skin
First up: the sun. “UV radiation is the most significant environmental factor and also one of the most recognized when it comes to skin damage and aging,” says Marisa Garshick, MD, a dermatologist at Medical Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery in New York City. UV rays trigger the production of free radicals in the skin that lead to DNA damage and the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the skin, causing wrinkles, notes the World Health Organization (WHO); it also stimulates the melanin production that leads to skin discolorations, says Garshick. According to a 2017 article in Tropical Dermatology, melanin is a pigment that gives skin its color. Beyond aesthetics is the increased risk of skin cancers. It’s the cumulative effect of sun exposure that, over time, can lead to the formation of non-melanoma skin cancers, including basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC); early childhood UV exposure may be a bigger factor in melanoma skin cancers, which can be deadly, the WHO points out. RELATED: 10 Sun-Care Products That Dermatologists Use For example, one study published in Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity in February 2015 suggested that visible light increased free radical formation in the skin. Another, in the December 2018 issue of the Journal of Biomedical Physics Engineering suggests that this free-radical-generating light also includes the flash on smartphones. (The title even asks if taking selfies can lead to premature aging.) RELATED: 6 Steps for Choosing a Clean and Safe Sunscreen
Air Pollution Plays a Role in Accelerating Skin Aging
Air pollution doesn’t just affect how you breathe. As the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) warns, it can also create the same free radical damage in skin as light. “Exposure to air pollution, which includes particulate matter, nitrogen dioxide, hydrocarbons, and ozone, creates oxidative damage in the skin that increases inflammation,” says Dr. Chwalek, whose statement is supported by data cited in a review published in Dermato-Endocrinology. Consider particulate matter (PM), for instance. PM is a mixture of small particles and liquid droplets, such as organic chemicals and soil or dust, according to the EPA. A study on human skin cell cultures published in September 2018 in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences suggests that PM stimulates skin inflammation and impairs collagen synthesis. Over time, this may cause sagging and fine lines and wrinkles. “Pollution creates the free radicals in skin that prematurely chew up collagen and elastin,” says Rebecca Kazin, MD, an associate director at the Washington Institute of Dermatological Laser Surgery in Chevy Chase, Maryland. What’s more, if you’re dealing with dark spots appearing on your face, you may have cars to blame. An article published in May 2016 in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology also shows that exposure to air particles from traffic is linked to pigment spots on cheeks, Garshick points out. RELATED: A Complete Guide to Vitamin C Serums
2. Pick a Tinted Sunscreen for a Product That Does Double Duty
To better block blue light, look for a tinted moisturizer with SPF, says Garshick. Iron oxides, which are formulated into tinted sunscreens, are the ingredient that shields skin from this type of light spectrum. (It’s what provides the tint.) She likes EltaMD UV Daily Tinted Broad-Spectrum SPF 40 ($31, Dermstore.com) or SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense SPF 50 ($34, Dermstore.com).
3. Pick a Functional Powder for On-the-Go Sun Protection
Visible light can aggravate existing pigmentation problems, says Garshick, and you should have a product that you can reapply when indoors. Powders with a built-in SPF are great options because you can dust these on over existing makeup. They’re particularly useful if you work in an office and need a midday touch-up. Try Colorescience Sunforgettable Total Protection Brush-On Shield SPF 50 ($65, Colorescience.com). RELATED: 10 Things Your Skin Is Trying to Tell You — and How to Respond
4. Ramp Up on Red Algae to Guard Against Blue Light
If you don’t like tinted primers, another option is to look for a product with red algae, which is designed to protect against blue light, says Garshick. She likes Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen ($32, Sephora.com).
6. Opt for Antioxidants Like Glutathione and Resveratrol
Antioxidants have their place at night, too, as they can help repair damage done during the day, says Garshick. Look for resveratrol, which according to past research is a powerful antioxidant found in red wine that sops up free radicals, in SkinCeuticals Resveratrol B E ($153, SkinCeuticals.com). Garshick also recommends Good Science Beauty Skin Brightening Cream ($98, GoodScienceBeauty.com), as it’s packed with glutathione, another potent antioxidant that addresses dark spots to even tone, according to a study published in October 2014 in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. RELATED: Can You Sleep Your Way to Healthier, Brighter Skin?
8. Protect in the P.M.
Use products that help clear out the dust and debris that build up on skin’s surface, says Garshick. She likes Good Science Beauty Purifying Face Cream ($48, GoodScienceBeauty.com), which targets toxins with oligopeptide-10, a plant-based antimicrobial peptide, the product website notes. Another recommendation is Elizabeth Arden Prevage Hydrating Fluid ($119, ElizabethArden.com), which uses idebenone, an antioxidant that clears up environmental damage.
