Clean-beauty advocates and organizations, including the EWG, have praised the new rule, but are the chemicals California has banned really dangerous? And if you live outside of California and these chemicals are in your products, should you be concerned? Here’s what you need to know.
A Brief History of Cosmetics Regulation in the US
“The Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act gives consumers the healthier products they are demanding and deserve,” says Susan Little, EWG’s senior advocate for California government affairs. The EWG is a research and advocacy nonprofit that focuses on educating consumers about potential health harms in the environment, including in their personal-care products. Although the new cosmetics act is novel legislation in the United States, it is minute compared with the comprehensive guidelines set forth by the European Union (EU). While the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has banned only 11 chemicals, the European Union has a whopping 1,600-plus on its do-not-use list. Plus, the EU regularly updates its list and added to it as recently as September 9, 2020. Despite similar bills being introduced in Congress, including a bipartisan effort from Susan Collins (R-Maine) and Dianne Feinstein (D-California), which is currently stalled in the Senate, the last time any changes were made on a national level was 1938. That year, President Franklin Delano Roosevelt was president, and part two of the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act passed. RELATED: What Are ‘Natural’ Skin-Care Products, and Are They Actually Better for You?
Which Chemicals Did California Ban and Why?
Under California’s new rule, banned chemicals include formaldehyde and mercury, along with several phthalates, about a dozen PFAS, parabens, and per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances as well as their salts. Some of these chemicals have known risks, while others are being studied for their potential harm. Take parabens, for example: “While parabens are absorbed by the body through the use of cosmetics and personal-care products, it’s not fully understood as to whether they pose any long-term health risks,” says Whitney Bowe, MD, a dermatologist based in New York City and the author of The Beauty of Dirty Skin. “Concerns exist, but no clear link has been demonstrated. Even well-known and respected skin-care brands, like Cerave, continue to formulate using parabens in many of their most popular products.” But parabens pale in comparison to the issues caused by formaldehyde, a preservative that’s typically used on cadavers and is an Environmental Protection Agency–classified carcinogen, along with two of its derivatives. Exposure to formaldehyde can cause myeloid leukemia and several rare cancers, including those of the paranasal sinuses, nasal cavity, and nasopharynx in humans, per the National Cancer Institute. That’s probably not something you want in your nail polish or hair products. Methylene glycol is one ingredient that releases formaldehyde vapors into the air when heated and can cause serious health issues, says Rhonda Davis, a cosmetic chemist at the Alquemie Product Development Group in Mobile, Alabama. Traces of this toxin may currently be lurking in products such as nail polish, nail polish remover, hair styling agents, and baby hygiene products sold at retailers, she adds. Here’s the thing, though: The levels of formaldehyde and its derivatives that exist in your own products aren’t generally the problem. It’s more so a problem for people who work with those chemicals regularly at their day job. “While the amounts are low in products [including hair relaxers and nail lacquers], the long-term effects can be damaging, especially to those individuals exposed to it on a daily basis, such as nail artists and hair stylists,” says Davis. Some large-scale manufacturers have taken action due to the potential risks of formaldehyde. For instance, Johnson & Johnson cut formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing ingredients from its products in 2014, and CVS eliminated formaldehyde from its store-brand beauty and personal-care products in 2019. According to the American Cancer Society, formaldehyde may be listed by several other names, including formalin, formic aldehyde, and methanediol. Another ingredient included in the California ban is mercury, which carries known risks. Mercury can have negative effects on the nervous, digestive, and immune systems, and on lungs, kidneys, skin, and eyes, according to the World Health Organization. These risks far outweigh whatever the potential skin-lightening aesthetic benefits of using a mercury-containing product or an antiseptic soap spiked with the ingredient. And like formaldehyde, mercury sometimes appears in ingredient lists under different names. Its compounds can also include the words “mercurous chloride,” “calomel, mercuric,” and “mercurio,” according to the FDA. The FDA also notes the link between personal-care products that contain mercury and potential mercury poisoning. Davis notes the absence of DMDM hydantonin, a commonly used formaldehyde-releasing agent in beauty products, in the new legislation. “I am shocked that this ingredient was not included in the ban,” she says, “but hopefully there will be additional ingredients added to the bill over time.” RELATED: The Skin-Care Glossary Every Woman Needs to Have
What to Do if You’re Concerned About Toxins in Your Personal-Care Products
Regardless of the cosmetic regulation (or lack thereof) in your home state or country, it’s important to be a conscious consumer and make educated decisions about the personal-care products and cosmetics that you and your family are using. If history is any indication, it’s unlikely that other states will follow California’s lead anytime soon. “If we wait for definitive evidence linking a particular ingredient to a particular outcome, I believe [it’s possible to] expose people to unnecessary harm,” says Dr. Bowe. “I do believe we need to take precautionary steps today but do so in an evidence-based way that doesn’t create unnecessary fear surrounding ingredients that are indeed safe.” Companies may continue to take a proactive role in eliminating potentially harmful ingredients from their inventory, especially if they want their items sold in California. If you’re concerned, Davis says, “always review the ingredient labels.” Here are more helpful tips to make sure your beauty and skin-care products are working for, not against, your health. Gather research from trusted sources. For example, it’s worth checking out the EWG Skin Deep database, which provides extensive information about all kinds of personal-care items. You can simply enter an ingredient, brand, or the name of a product in the easy-to-find search bar. Is it not only user-friendly but also chock-full of need-to-know insider knowledge. Let your dermatologist sign off on any concerning new finds first. While it may be tempting to snag a new jar of cream or glossing hair treatment from that massive online sale, if you’re concerned about any of the product’s ingredients, reach out to your dermatologist first. It will help you not only avoid any potentially dangerous reactions or interactions but can also save you a few extra bucks. Get in touch with your state officials. While you might not get a call back, it’s important to raise your concerns with state and local governments after reviewing any regulatory bills that may be in the works. Lobbying for your personal health concerns can help raise awareness — remember, there’s power in numbers. “In the future, I believe this bill will be expanded to include additional potentially harmful ingredients such as DMDM hydantoin once more research and data have been submitted,” says Davis. “It is important that consumers utilize their voices and speak up to their respective state attorney generals if they encounter any issues with a product.” By being vigilant, raising your voice with your state government when concerned, and trusting medical and cosmetic pros, you’ll be able to not only clean up your beauty routine but also to potentially play a part in making real legislative change with science-backed research.
